Here's what I did differently:
- Instead of the cups that came with the pattern, I traced the cups of the best-fitting bra I own. It's a style I love, a bit more retro net bra inspired but with better support.
- I used a larger band size.
- I'd sewn the bra before so I knew the seam allowances and didn't have to pick and redo as many seams. (I still had to pick and redo the basting a couple times because I was working with a different cup and didn't have the same markings as the regular pattern for reference.)
- I cheated and didn't use a ball needle. Maybe not the wisest choice since I was sewing knit, but I was alternating between projects and was too damn lazy to change out the needle. I don't feel that it harmed my work. A ball needle is probably ideal.
- Bigger cups mean bigger wires. I ordered two sizes of bra wires in my last lingerie supply order, both larger than the ones that came with my kit. I used the largest wires on this net bra. Tells you something about my naivete in sizing estimation for construction. (With the bra pattern I purchased, I learned to go the next full bra size up since my size wasn't part of the pattern instead of hoping to fit into a cup that sometimes fits snug.)
- I did part of the satin stitching on the rear closure by manipulating the hand wheel of my machine. It made it easier to work around the buried metal of the hooks and eyes without breaking a needle or seizing up my machine.
- I realized at the end of the process that I could've made buttonholes on the cups to let out tassels from pasties for twirling.
- I couldn't find smooth elastic in the width I needed for cup support in nude or beige, so I bought felted elastic.
I think my next bra construction experiment will be an open cup bra. I want to keep everything lifted when I present it onstage. :)