Corset making time! This is the single layer corset I'm whipping out for Lili's birthday show. It's an under bust corset with a brass zipper closure. (I opted for the brass zipper for a few reasons. I don't plan to take the corset off onstage, but I want to be able to get into it easily. As a teacher, I know not every student will want to spend the $15-$20 on a busk but wouldn't mind spending $5 on a brass zipper. I also wanted to increase my zipper skills by sewing more zippers.)
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| Look at that perfect zipper and the Doodle Hulk. |
I learned a zipper-setting trick in a Craftsy class. I use a bit of stitch witch and secure the zipper to the fabric with an iron. It's important that the vertical lines of a corset be as clean as possible, so I had to make sure that the stitch witch was perfectly placed before pressing the zipper to the corset. I dotted craft glue along the stitch witch to secure it to the zipper, preventing slippage when I steamed it later. The sturdy fabric, the strong zipper, the stitch witch all contributed to the perfect setting.
Zipper teeth are attached to twill tape, and twill tape is very sturdy. I pressed the seam allowance and the zipper's twill tape inside the corset to create a boning channel. No need to add separate boning channels to support the zipper because I stitched them into the seam allowance.
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| Inner workings of the corset. |
Since it is a single layer corset, everything inside is exposed when the corset is open. You can see where I pressed the seam allowances open. Once I set the waist tape, boning channels will be stitched over those open seam allowances. It won't be gorgeous, but it will be well-made. I should have this done within a few days.
Tomorrow I will change the thread on my serger, change to a ball needle, and make that second cardigan!
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